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10-02-2015, 11:42 AM | #1 |
Status: Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
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updates and a question
Well with only sat. and sundays to work on the boat, im not done yet lol, of course 50ft is a lot of boat for one guy, gonna have to get a life vest for the bottles of product, was compounding the last part of the wave shear and when i stood up i bumped the bottle and watched it roll in the river ,
but i have a question, The maroon rub rail (goes all the way around and is about 6 to 7 inches wide) i tested a spot where there was some water spots and oxidation, 3 passes with compund and i could still see the spots, so it seems some damp sanding is in order. i have the porter cable da i got from you guys, but what backing plate and sanding disk do you guys have for it, i got the makita from you guys also, but from what i read the da is the way to go for damp sanding BTW people are very impressed with the way your products are working on a 1988 gibson houseboat. Thanks Again Tim |
10-05-2015, 12:34 PM | #2 | |||||
Status: Director of Training
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 675
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Re: updates and a question
Quote:
Quote:
Hmm..... Marine 31 Product Flotation Wraps Quote:
For a backing plate, get the Meguiar's 6" Meguiars Unigrit 6 Inch Professional Backing Plate For sanding discs, get the Mirka Abralon discs in 6". These will attach to the Meguiar's backing plate and because the Mirka discs are made with a foam backing you won't need an interface. MIRKA Sanding Discs Then get a spray bottle for clean water and add a few drops of liquid car wash soap or boat wash soap or even dish soap. Just add a few drops as that's all that's needed for lubrication and to help prevent the face of the pad from clogging. If you add too much soap you'll create a lot of suds/foam when you sand. Quote:
The Flex 3401 is ONLY safe for boats... not car paint. If you try to use a rotary buffer to sand with it's no longer called sanding it's called GRINDING. (Don't do it, you'll gouge the surface) You will use the rotary buffer with a wool pad to remove your sanding marks. As for discs to get here's the deal. It's easier on you and faster to spend more time sanding than spending time using a rotary buffer trying to remove sanding marks. So get #2000 grit discs and if you charge for it accordingly to your customer, also get #3000 discs. Sand with #2000 first and then re-sand using #3000 Then buff. You can stop at #2000 discs but then you will be pushing the rotary buffer harder and longer against the side of the boat trying to remove your sanding marks. When you machine sand you hold the DA lightly against the side of the boat and that's the HUGE difference between machine sanding to remove oxidation and machine compounding to remove oxidation.... how hard you push a tool against a vertical/angled surface and how long you push a tool against a vertical/angled surface. Quote:
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10-05-2015, 01:58 PM | #3 |
Status: Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
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Re: updates and a question
ok thanks, just ordered the backing plate and sanding disc's, i figured you would start at 600 or a 1000 grit, but will start at 2000 then finish with 3000,
i wish there was somebody i could charge, im about a $1000.00 into it, but the wife is happy with the progress, but she commented this weekend that the rub rail is the star attraction, here is a pic of a AC cover, that had no shine and tons of scratches and spider poop stain the bottle is about 8ft away on a picnic table, btw its white fiberglass it was a bluebird day here is the rub rail that im dealing with, test spot and one with out |
10-05-2015, 02:15 PM | #4 |
Status: Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
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Re: updates and a question
here is one looking down the side of the boat, it was starting to get dark, but i really dont take alot of pictures,
i will do the hull this coming spring when we have the boat pulled and bottom painted |
10-06-2015, 11:13 AM | #5 |
Status: Director of Training
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 675
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Re: updates and a question
Here's your pictures. I taught myself years ago how to work with pictures in the discussion forum world. I've found it to be just as an important of skill to possess as using a buffer.
These pictures are uploaded to your free gallery here on Marine31Online.com Before and afters are dramatic, good job and thank you for sharing. After Before After Your upcoming project
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10-13-2015, 02:00 PM | #6 |
Status: Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
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Re: updates and a question
20151012_151730_resized.jpg
20151012_151754_resized.jpg here is some shots from the weekend, machine sanded 2000 then 3000 then compunded then polish then wax, wife is happy so im good to go lol, i also ordered the flex 3401 hopefully it will speed up the polishing process Take care Tim |
10-16-2015, 08:27 AM | #7 | ||
Status: Director of Training
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 675
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Re: updates and a question
Quote:
Compounding Only You push a rotary buffer HARD against an inclined surface for hours. Machine sanding You hold a DA sander next to the surface with light pressure for a lot less time. Which one was easier on you and netted better results? Quote:
My new boat detailing book is scheduled to be printed and delivered today! I put a lot of focus on the Flex 3401 in the book for boat detailing mostly due to the speed aspect provided by the gear-driven design of the tool.
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10-16-2015, 11:39 AM | #8 |
Status: Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
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Re: updates and a question
Sanding then compounding was a lot easier than just the compounding, plus gave much better results
machine sanding vs hand sanding well the machine wins every time The abrolon sanding disks even though they are pricey, they were well worth the expense, When will your book be available to purchase I would like to get a copy Thanks Tim |
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