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Old 10-05-2015, 12:34 PM   #2
Mike Phillips
 
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Status: Director of Training
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 675
Default Re: updates and a question

Quote:
Originally Posted by slider67 View Post

Well with only sat. and sundays to work on the boat, im not done yet lol, of course 50ft is a lot of boat for one guy,
That's a lot of boat for 5 guys!


Quote:
Originally Posted by slider67 View Post

gonna have to get a life vest for the bottles of product,

was compounding the last part of the wave shear and when i stood up i bumped the bottle and watched it roll in the river,
Ouch!

Hmm..... Marine 31 Product Flotation Wraps



Quote:
Originally Posted by slider67 View Post

but i have a question, The maroon rub rail (goes all the way around and is about 6 to 7 inches wide) i tested a spot where there was some water spots and oxidation, 3 passes with compound and i could still see the spots,

so it seems some damp sanding is in order.

i have the porter cable DA i got from you guys,

but what backing plate and sanding disk do you guys have for it,
Most sanding discs come in 3" and 6". There are a few 5" option on the market but most are 3" and 6".

For a backing plate, get the Meguiar's 6"

Meguiars Unigrit 6 Inch Professional Backing Plate

For sanding discs, get the Mirka Abralon discs in 6". These will attach to the Meguiar's backing plate and because the Mirka discs are made with a foam backing you won't need an interface.

MIRKA Sanding Discs

Then get a spray bottle for clean water and add a few drops of liquid car wash soap or boat wash soap or even dish soap. Just add a few drops as that's all that's needed for lubrication and to help prevent the face of the pad from clogging. If you add too much soap you'll create a lot of suds/foam when you sand.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slider67 View Post

i got the Makita from you guys also, but from what i read the DA is the way to go for damp sanding
Anytime you're sanding you want to use a dual action polisher. In my brand new boat detailing book I show using both the PC and the Flex 3401. The PC and versions of the PC are safe for car paint and boats.

The Flex 3401 is ONLY safe for boats... not car paint.

If you try to use a rotary buffer to sand with it's no longer called sanding it's called GRINDING. (Don't do it, you'll gouge the surface)

You will use the rotary buffer with a wool pad to remove your sanding marks.

As for discs to get here's the deal. It's easier on you and faster to spend more time sanding than spending time using a rotary buffer trying to remove sanding marks.

So get #2000 grit discs and if you charge for it accordingly to your customer, also get #3000 discs. Sand with #2000 first and then re-sand using #3000 Then buff.

You can stop at #2000 discs but then you will be pushing the rotary buffer harder and longer against the side of the boat trying to remove your sanding marks.

When you machine sand you hold the DA lightly against the side of the boat and that's the HUGE difference between machine sanding to remove oxidation and machine compounding to remove oxidation.... how hard you push a tool against a vertical/angled surface and how long you push a tool against a vertical/angled surface.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slider67 View Post

BTW people are very impressed with the way your products are working on a 1988 gibson houseboat.
Before and after pictures?

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