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Old 02-11-2016, 03:29 PM   #5
Mike Phillips
 
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Status: Director of Training
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 669
Default Re: Porter Cable Kit Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by briggss3 View Post

6) Do I need a small backing plate and pads for the tighter areas? Also, how hard is it to do the console oxidation whereby it looks like it will have to be hand buffed? What do I need there?
Question 6) is actually three questions. LOL As most of your other questions, that is there's multiple questions in each questions. No big deal but if you look how I used the "Multi-Quote" feature available in the software that powers this forum if it wasn't for this it would be hard to answer so many questions in a visual format that you or anyone could read, follow or understand.

Years ago I wrote an article that suggested asking 3 questions and by doing so you'll get great answers by other people because lots of questions just make people >click< away from the thread.

Not me, I'm an employee so I take the time to provide customer support by doing my best to answer all your questions. One thing for sure, you could never get this kind of back and forth discussion on Facebook as the "interface" that is the tiny boxes just don't work great for detailed information.


A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread



Back to questions 6


Quote:
Originally Posted by briggss3 View Post

6) Do I need a small backing plate and pads for the tighter areas?
Kind of. Might be faster to knock them out by hand using a piece of terry cloth and a compound. I show this in my how-to book.

You can get a smaller backing plate but you need to get more aggressive pads to work on oxidized gel-coat in tight areas. We have these too....



Quote:
Originally Posted by briggss3 View Post

Also, how hard is it to do the console oxidation whereby it looks like it will have to be hand buffed? What do I need there?

Hand buffed. Or like I demonstrate in the book using a rotary buffer with an extension and a small backing plate and small pad.

Like this,

Pictures: 16' Key Largo Center Console Boat Detailing Class with Marine 31







Quote:
Originally Posted by briggss3 View Post

7) Last - My Plexiglas window is quite bad and has spider cracks swirls in it as well as 1,000,000 dead mosquito carcasses fused into it. Is there anything that brings it back from the dead?
You can try to machine buff it with the cleaner/wax and the foam cutting pad.

I'd test a section first and make sure the results are getting better not worse.

Most the time guys tell me they have a PLEXIGLASS window they in fact have a Lexan or some other really hard plastic and it can be hard or impossible to restore a clear-as-glass results.

So test first....

If the light cleaner/wax helps or helps a little then a stronger high quality compound would probably help more. Again it really comes down to two words,

Abrasive Technology

I know it's easy to think,

"It's all the same"


But that's simply not true. Our cleaner/waxes use great abrasive technology as does the Captain's Compound but the price reflects the quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by briggss3 View Post

Sorry for the long post. I spent that last several days hitting the various forums looking for answers.

Steven

Hope you found your best help here.... it took me almost an hour to use the multi-quote feature to dissect all your questions into chunks you could read and then follow the answers.

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